June 2023 • Canon 80D camera
The Registan is the iconic public square in Samarakand. During the Timurid Empire, this public square acted as a center for social life and was used for royal announcements. Surrounding the square are three majestic Madrasahs: Ulugbek Madrasah, Sher Dor Madrasah, and the Tilla-Kari Madrasah. These madrasahs were built between the 15th and 17th centuries. Madrasah is an Arabic term meaning school. They also provided living quarters and had an inner courtyard.
On the western side (left) of the square sits the oldest madrasah. Built between 1417 and 1420, the madrasah is named after a well known mathematician and astronomer, Ulugh Beg. He was the ruler of the Timurid Empire from 1447-49. The front facade is decorated with mosaic tile work depicting the sky and stars. Mathematics and science were studied in this madrasah.
The second madrasah to be built on the square on the eastern side (right) is the Sher Dor Maadrasah. Built between 1619 and 1636 by Yalangtush Biy, it depicts two strange tigers on the front facade. The name of this madrasah comes from the tigers, as 'Sher' means tiger. Wonderfully decorated in geometric tilework, this madrasah is known to be the most photographed at the Registan.
'Registan' translates to 'Sandy place' in Uzbek. In ancient times, this place was covered by sand
The third and final madrasah built in the square is the Tilla Kari Madrasah. It is directly ahead of you as you enter the square. The construction of the Tilla-Kori Madrasah lasted more than 14 years and finished in 1660. Different from the other two madrasahs in the square, the front facade has two levels. As the centerpiece of the Registan, the interior of the madrasah is the showpiece. The inner courtyard has a mosque, decorated with a golden ceiling, which is where the madrasah gets its name, Tilla-Kari (gold/gilded covered). It reminded me of the interrior of the Sam amir temur mausoleum that I visited.
As one of the iconic sites along the famous Silk Road route, the Registan is a must to visit while you are in Smarakand. An excellent example of the exquisite tile work, with the famous blue colours and geometric patterns. As with Shah-i-Zinda complex, the building may look similar, but up close you notice all the wonderful details that make each madrasah unique. As an important landmark in Samarkand, it can get very busy tourists, so plan to come early or later in the day to avoid the crowds. You might want to avoid midday during summer, as the harsh sun will make it difficult to stand in the square for long.